How do I wire a nut wire? wire nut installation instructions.
Generally, the hot wire on the ballast is black, and the neutral is white. The other colors are the wires that connect the ballast to the fluorescent tube holders and to each other.
The ballast has a hot and neutral wire at one end to receive power, and two blue wires a red one at the other end to supply power to the lights.
The two yellow wires complete the circuit through the fluorescent tube back into the ballast. The red and blue wires energize the pins the fluorescent tube is attached to, the yellow wires connect to the pins on the opposite ends of the fluorescent light tubes completing the circuit.
Black wire is for line voltage and white wire for neutral. An instant start ballast uses a single wire which connects from the ballast to each of the lamp terminals.
The gray/red wire is the return path for the second set of lamps. In other words, it is the neutral for the second set of lamps.
The two bulbs will always have slightly different impedances, so more current will flow through one or the other. It’s difficult to balance this out. The condition where one bulb is fired and the other is not is obviously the worst case for this.
If the ballast has no direct ground connection then you can use a blue (for #14 and #16 wire) stake-on fork on the stranded wire from the cord and attach it directly under the ground screw or you can wrap a short piece of solid green or bare #14 wire around the screw and attach it to the cord by a wire connector.
Measure the distance between each fluorescent fixture. Cut a length of 14/2 nonmetallic cable (NM) that measures 12 inches longer than your measurement. Repeat this step for each fluorescent light you will wire in this series.
2 Answers. Newer electronic ballasts run fine with lamps removed. Many replacement ballasts can be wired for several combinations of lamps, such that a 4-lamp ballast can be wired to a 3 or 2 lamp fixture. This will be shown right on the label and wiring diagram.
If you use a wrong sized ballast the LRC will not be tuned so you are likely to not start the lamp at all. There is the possibility of burning out components pre-maturely also due to overcurrent and overvoltage conditions particularly if using a larger ballast on a smaller fixture.
Run a length of two-conductor wire from the existing fluorescent fixture to the new fixture. Loosen the screw on the side of the cable clamps on both fixtures. Feed the ends of the wire through the cable clamps and tighten the screws until the wire is secure.
The blue wire is the blue wire to the ballast. The right tombstone has two red wires (one in each socket) and they lead to the other side of the ballast. The black supply wire is connected to the black wire to the ballast.
- Buzzing. If you hear a strange sound coming from your bulbs or light fixture, like a buzzing or humming noise, that’s often a sign your ballast is going. …
- Dimming or flickering. …
- No lights at all. …
- Changing colors. …
- Swollen casing. …
- Burn marks. …
- Water damage. …
- Leaking oil.
Brown is your hot wire so you want to connect that to your building’s black wire. The blue is negative or return, so that will go to white.
The screw is almost always directly attached to the metal body of the fixture or to metal that is connected to the metal body. The ground wire from the cable (also usually green) should be attached to the grounding wire on the fixture with a wire nut or screwed to the grounding screw.
It’s possible to supply 48 lights with 40 watt light bulbs and still have a 20% safety margin with a 20 Amp breaker. When you only want to put 4 lights on a breaker, it’s unnecessary to have a breaker that is high.
In fluorescent lights, each tube is in series with it’s own ballast; a dual tube fixture will have two independent ballasts in a single box.
do not need to be grounded as they don’t have an intimate connection with your wall socket, but… A fluorescent has such an intimate connection; the frame could easily come into contact with the electrically hot wire and fry your rear, just as easily as an incandescent light can.
- Cut and cap one yellow and one red or blue wire with a wire nut.
- Connect each of the blue ballast wires to the each of the two blue lampholder wires.
- Connect the red ballast wire to the third blue lampholder wire.
When considering a ballast for your lamp, make sure they have corresponding ANSI (American National Standards Institute) codes. Matching ANSI codes guarantees that the ballast you chose can be used with your lamp. However, ballasts are often compatible with more than one lamp, and vice versa.
T8 LED lamps which are not direct-wire compatible (with ballast) will require a T8 ballast to operate, so unless the T12 ballast in the T12 fixture is replaced with a T8 ballast, a non-direct-wire compatible T8 LED lamp will not work in a T12 fixture. …
Fluorescent lamps use a ballast which transforms line voltage to a voltage to start up and operate the lamp(s). Newer fluorescent ballasts are usually rated for both 120 volts and 277 volts. Some are rated for only 120 volts, others for only 277 volts (used in commercial environments).